Tales from the Trail: Exploring the Dual Nature of Pain and Fulfillment in Mount Rinjani
Booking a trip to hike Mount Rinjani on impulse was a decision I will never forget. After coming across a youtube video of a couple hiking the mountain, I was intrigued and eager to embark on this adventure. However, the experience was much more demanding than I anticipated. Enduring three days and two nights in the wild of Mount Rinjani, I faced unexpected pain and suffering. Despite the challenges, this journey proved to be an unforgettable one.
Mount Rinjani is an active volcano in Indonesia on the island of Lombok. It rises to 3,726 meters, making it the second-highest volcano in Indonesia.
In hindsight, my trip could have been better planned. My preparation was limited to acquiring the essential hiking gear merely four days before departure. However, I had been consistently exercising at the gym (3–4 times per week) and engaging in sports like running and tennis, including a half marathon.
My previous hike was in 2018. The only point of reference I had to decide.
The hike aimed to challenge my physical and mental endurance to see if my whole training had effectively taken me to the next level. Besides, I also wanted to know if I could enjoy hiking as much as other people who love being in the wild and challenging themselves further.
Day 1 — Dopamine Rush
As the sun shone down on me, I eagerly awaited the arrival of my driver, who would be taking me to the start of the trail. Little did I know, this ride would introduce me to three fellow hikers and a knowledgeable guide who would accompany me on a three-day journey through nature’s beauty. Our group quickly bonded and savored every moment of the hike, creating unforgettable memories.
The first day was a total dopamine shot to the brain!
As I began my hike, I couldn’t contain my excitement. The trail was breathtaking, surrounded by lush greenery and a sprawling savannah that led up to Mount Rinjani. The sunny and chilly weather only added to the enchanting atmosphere. However, the view was partially covered by a blanket of mysterious clouds, leaving me with anticipation and nervousness for what lay ahead.
During our trek, we were accompanied by a team of porters who provided us with sustenance and cooked meals. My companions and I often found ourselves awestruck by their incredible strength, which made us feel inferior by comparison. We were well-equipped with hiking gear, but the porters wore nothing more than flip-flops and relied solely on their physical strength to transport all the necessities for survival, such as tents, sleeping bags, and food. The porters truly embodied a different level of resilience.
After conquering the challenging “hill of regret,” we finally arrived at the campsite after a grueling seven-hour journey. The steep ascent was so intense that we needed a ladder to reach the top.
The campsite was an exhilarating experience that offered a breathtaking view of the summit in the distance, tantalizingly out of reach. The sky was a stunning canvas of clouds, as if we were suspended in a magical world. The scenery was a delight, and I yearned to dive into the pool of clouds below.
As we had to start the next trail by 2AM the next day to get to the summit, we had to sleep earlier after a big dinner.
Day 2 — Pain and Fulfillment
Day 2 turned out to be a brutal challenge. Despite the ease of Day 1, I quickly realized that the journey to the summit would be anything but simple:
The low oxygen level made each step feel like a struggle, leaving me gasping for air.
On top of that, the biting wind and freezing temperatures penetrated even my double jacket, shirt, gloves, and beanie hat, leaving me shivering to the bone. I had no choice but to keep moving to combat the cold, as stopping only worsened the suffering. It was as if death itself was chasing me. But by pushing forward, I eventually found the strength to carry on.
The “Letter E” trail is notoriously difficult for hikers attempting to reach the summit. Its narrow (2–3 meter) path and lack of safety lines make it a dangerous trek, causing many to lose their footing and give up. The trail is composed of small stones and sand, making navigating incredibly slippery and frustrating. Despite our best efforts, we found ourselves slipping and sliding, taking four steps forward only to slide two steps back. We all had to moonwalk the way up to the summit.
Despite the summit appearing so close, the hike felt never-ending, and my internal monologue urged me to give up. My legs felt heavy, and movement was like wrestling in mud. The more I moved, the deeper I drowned in the abyss. However, I must reach the summit by sunrise, and resting would only hinder my progress. With perseverance, I kept moving one step at a time, determined to finish, even if it took a while.
Exactly at 6.30AM, I arrived at the summit.
The summit was nothing short of magical. As I arrived at the summit alongside other hikers, I could feel the excitement and energy radiating from their happy faces. They had all conquered the grueling hike and were beaming with pride. Some captured the moment with photos, while others embraced their friends or rested well. Despite the chilly weather, we were all filled with accomplishment and joy.
But the real highlight was the sunrise. It was nothing short of breathtaking, and I found myself wishing I could sit and watch it for hours on end.
After taking some photos and resting, we returned to the campsite. As I made my way back, I couldn’t help but reflect on the grueling trail we had just conquered:
It was long, winding, cold, and narrow — a true test of our physical and mental strength. Despite the many people who had given up along the way, we persevered for over four hours, determined to reach the summit. I admit I had my doubts and questioned my own abilities. Still, in the end, I pushed myself harder than I ever thought possible. Looking back, I was proud of our accomplishments and grateful for the experience.
But, the trail continued.
It was 11AM. We had to move to the next camp on the other side of the hill and arrive before 6PM to chase the sunset. The trail requires us to go down to the lake and then go up again through the side of the cliff. So, we first had to dive into the pool of clouds.
A descent trail is a different experience from an ascent, relying heavily on knees and ankle positioning for good footing. However, the summit had consumed over 70% of our energy, causing my knees to scream with every step down the rocky, notoriously dangerous trail as many people had twisted their ankles there.
The clouds shrouded us down to the lake, concealing its true color. The sun didn’t shine, leaving us feeling cold with a mysterious sensation.
We stopped at a nearby hot spring to wash off the dust from our journey to the summit. It had been a while since we had the chance to relax in such a way. It felt like we had stumbled upon an oasis where we could feel safe and unwind, even though we were only there for 20 minutes.
The pressure to finish the day off before sunset had called upon us, telling us to make one last steep ascent on a narrow, one-meter-wide path along the cliff side. With the cold closing in, we couldn’t wait much longer, lest it find us and snap us from behind.
Finally, after carrying the weight of our suffering, we arrived at the other side of the previous campsite to witness the magical sunset. The sun shone brightly above the clouds, casting a warm glow on the hill and nearby area, leaving us joyful, relaxed, happy, and grateful. It was worth every ounce of sweat, hard work, and pain endured to experience this moment.
Day 3 — Contemplation
As I opened my eyes and attempted to move my legs, I felt a sudden heaviness as if they were chained to the mountain’s root, but I broke it with the power of will. The trek back home stretched longer than the previous day but was more bearable than the second day. Having had a decent night’s sleep, my body had regained some energy, and I felt prepared to embark on my journey back to the comforts of home.
During my journey back, as I walked down through the forest where the birds were singing and the golden rays of sunlight piercing through the leaves, a profound realization dawned upon me:
I discovered a deep passion for the mountains, a yearning to connect with nature, a long hike as if it never ends, a journey to the unknown, and an insatiable drive to push my physical and mental boundaries. While living in the present moment, I willingly embraced challenges, persevered through pain and discomfort, and ultimately emerged victorious. Reflecting on this experience, I am immensely grateful for the opportunity to discover a newfound love for the great outdoors.
The experience of climbing Mount Rinjani convinced me of the importance of taking on one or two big challenges each year that scare us the most, pushing us beyond what we thought was possible. By overcoming adversity, we learn to be more resilient, persevere, push through discomfort, become more adaptable to changing circumstances, and feel victorious. This can lead us through self-discovery to find ourselves on the other side of a much better hill. A hill of joy, gratitude, mindfulness, and fulfillment.
Upon arriving home, I felt a strong desire for a new adventure.
